Nearly 60% of hair products contain chemicals linked to hormone disruption and cancer. Researchers have now tied regular relaxer use to higher rates of uterine, ovarian, and even breast cancer. So far, no chemical hair straightener has been cleared of suspicion.
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The Hair Relaxer and Cancer Link: What Science Says
For decades, millions have used chemical hair relaxers, often marketed to Black women, to straighten curly or coily hair. Growing evidence suggests these products carry serious health risks. No relaxer brand has been proven completely risk-free, and researchers have raised alarms about multiple hormone-sensitive cancers:
- Uterine Cancer: A major 2022 NIH study of 33,500 women found frequent relaxer use (4+ times per year) more than doubled uterine cancer risk. About 2.5 times greater risk was seen in heavy users vs. non-users. Uterine cancer (often endometrial cancer) is rare but rates have surged in recent decades, prompting scrutiny of products containing endocrine disruptors.
- Ovarian Cancer: A similar NIH study of 40,500 women found long-term relaxer use doubled ovarian cancer risk. Ovarian cancer is particularly dangerous, and even a small risk increase is concerning.
- Breast Cancer: Emerging research suggests a link between phthalates (chemicals in hair relaxers) and breast tumors. A Mexican study found women with the highest levels of a phthalate metabolite had more than four times the odds of breast cancer compared to those with lowest levels. Additionally, women who frequently used hair relaxers had a 31% higher risk of breast cancer in one U.S. study.
Why Are Hair Relaxers Potentially Harmful?
Chemical relaxers work by breaking protein bonds in hair to flatten curls. Unfortunately, the ingredients that achieve straightening can be hazardous:
- Formaldehyde & Releasers: Some straightening treatments (like Brazilian Blowouts) use or release formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen. Formaldehyde exposure is linked to cancers of the upper respiratory tract and blood, plus immediate effects like eye and lung irritation. The FDA has moved to ban formaldehyde in hair-smoothing products after years of complaints. California and Maryland have banned formaldehyde in cosmetics from 2025. However, traditional lye relaxers typically don’t contain formaldehyde – meaning the cancer links likely stem from other chemicals.
- Sodium Hydroxide (Lye): A powerful caustic agent used to straighten hair. Lye relaxers can cause chemical burns, scalp lesions, and hair loss if misused. Scalp damage may heighten chemical absorption.
- Endocrine Disruptors: Ingredients like phthalates, parabens, and certain cyclic silicones appear often in relaxers. These chemicals can mimic estrogen or otherwise interfere with hormones. Phthalates (like DEHP) and parabens have been linked to breast tumors, reproductive harm, fibroids, and early puberty.
- Other Toxins: Studies have detected metals (like lead), bisphenol A (BPA), and chemicals like triclosan in hair products. Some “no-lye” relaxers use guanidine hydroxide, which can still irritate skin and is often mixed from calcium hydroxide + guanidine carbonate – generating lye in the process. Older formulas or contaminants might include chemicals now banned or limited.
Taken together, the “chemical soup” in many relaxers can pose systemic risks beyond hair damage. Women often apply these products over decades, sometimes starting in childhood (for example, Just for Me relaxers marketed for kids). This chronic exposure, especially through the thin, porous scalp skin, is a plausible pathway for chemicals to affect internal organs.
Brands Implicated in Lawsuits
A wave of lawsuits since late 2022 highlights several popular hair relaxer brands accused of causing cancer or other harm:
- Dark & Lovely (L’Oréal) – One of the best-known relaxers, marketed to Black women since the 1970s. Lawsuits allege Dark & Lovely causes uterine, ovarian, and endometrial cancers, and that L’Oréal failed to warn users. As a top defendant, L’Oréal insists its products are safe but now faces thousands of claims.
- ORS Olive Oil Relaxer (Namaste/Dabur) – Promoted as using olive oil for gentler results. Claims against Namaste argue it contains the same hazardous chemicals as others. Notably, Namaste produced over 460,000 pages of documents in the MDL discovery – the most of any defendant so far.
- Just For Me (SoftSheen-Carson/Godrej) – A relaxer kit historically advertised for children. Plaintiffs say even “kiddie” relaxers like Just For Me contain endocrine disruptors and lye derivatives that may contribute to fibroids and cancers. This brand is named in many suits.
- Optimum, Motions, Soft & Beautiful, TCB Naturals, Ultra Sheen, Creme of Nature – These and other brands by major manufacturers (L’Oréal, Revlon, Strength of Nature, etc.) are repeatedly cited in litigation. For example, Revlon’s Creme of Nature relaxer is mentioned in suits and Revlon’s bankruptcy hasn’t shielded it entirely. Optimum Salon Haircare by SoftSheen-Carson (L’Oréal) is another target given its popularity.
- Generic or Store Brands – While big brands dominate the MDL, some suits mention generic relaxers or salon-grade straighteners (like Brazilian keratin treatments). The unifying theme is the chemical content, not the brand name. So even lesser-known relaxers could be implicated if they contain similar ingredients.
Manufacturers emphatically deny that their products cause cancer. For instance, Revlon stated “we do not believe the science supports a link” between relaxers and cancer. L’Oréal said its relaxers have a “rich heritage” of safe use. They note the NIH study showed correlation, not proven causation. Nonetheless, internal documents and history are under the microscope. Plaintiffs argue companies either knew or should have known about the dangers and failed to warn consumers.
Ongoing Litigation: Federal MDL and More
Thousands of women have filed claims alleging chemical hair straighteners caused their cancer or health problems. Here’s an overview of the legal landscape:
- Federal MDL 3060: In February 2023, the U.S. Judicial Panel on Multidistrict Litigation created MDL No. 3060, consolidating all federal hair relaxer injury lawsuits in the Northern District of Illinois under Judge Mary M. Rowland. By March 2025, the MDL swelled to approximately 9,800 – 9,860 cases alleging uterine cancer (and related injuries). This rapid growth (hundreds of new cases each month) makes it one of the fastest-growing mass torts in the U.S.. Most plaintiffs are individual women with uterine, ovarian, or endometrial cancer diagnoses. Increasingly, hair stylists have joined, citing daily exposure to relaxer chemicals and subsequent cancers.
- Bellwether Trials: The MDL is now moving toward bellwether trials – representative early cases to gauge jury responses. Key deadlines in 2025 include selecting bellwether cases by April 30, 2025, completing core discovery (exchange of evidence) and expert reports by mid-2025, and aiming for first trials in late 2025. As of early 2025, Judge Rowland also allowed a proposed class action within the MDL focused on economic damages and medical monitoring for all relaxer purchasers. The first wrongful death cases (on behalf of women who died from cancer) have been filed as well.
- State Court Lawsuits: While most actions are in federal court, there are notable state cases. In California, a high-profile suit (Cynthia L. Jones v. L’Oréal USA, et al.) was filed in July 2024, alleging decades of relaxer use caused the plaintiff’s uterine fibroids and required a hysterectomy. This is significant as California’s consumer protection laws (and new cosmetics safety laws) could offer additional avenues for liability. Other state courts (New York, Georgia, etc.) have seen filings, but many get removed to federal court or stayed pending the MDL outcome.
- Claims in Litigation: Plaintiffs typically sue under theories of product liability – arguing relaxers were defectively designed (unreasonably dangerous) and failure to warn. They also raise negligence and sometimes breach of warranty claims. A common allegation is that companies marketed these products as safe for regular use, despite knowing (or having reason to know) they contained carcinogens or endocrine disruptors. Lawsuits seek damages for medical bills, pain and suffering, lost earnings, and in some cases punitive damages to punish alleged corporate misconduct.
No trials have occurred yet. However, in January 2024, Judge Rowland denied key motions to dismiss, allowing cases against major defendants to move forward. This was a win for plaintiffs – the court found the master complaint sufficiently alleged that companies’ products could have caused harm and that warning labels were lacking. As discovery continues (over 1.1 million documents produced so far), each side is building its case.
Settlement Prospects
Typically, mass tort defendants consider settlement after bellwether trials if those end favorably for plaintiffs. Legal experts predict if the evidence resonates with juries (e.g. internal emails acknowledging risk, etc.), settlements or a global resolution could follow in late 2025 or 2026. Plaintiffs’ firms are already projecting potential settlement ranges based on cancer type and severity, though no offers have been made public yet. For now, women affected are encouraged to file claims timely to be part of this litigation wave.
Do Any “Safe” Hair Relaxers Exist?
Given the uproar, consumers are asking if any hair relaxer on the market can be considered truly safe or cancer-free. Based on current knowledge:
- No brand has been scientifically proven to be completely free of cancer risk. The major studies did not single out specific brands – they tracked users of any chemical straighteners vs. non-users. Popular brands named in research (Dark & Lovely, Creme of Nature) are in lawsuits, but that doesn’t automatically exempt smaller brands.
- “Natural” or DIY alternatives: Some turn to at-home remedies (coconut cream relaxers, etc.) or non-chemical straightening methods. While these avoid harsh chemicals, their effectiveness varies and they have not been studied for long-term safety. Caution is warranted for any product that claims to be a totally safe relaxer without strong evidence.
- Dermatologist perspective: Hair experts note any relaxer that fundamentally alters hair bonds will involve potent chemicals, which carry risks of burns or absorption. Until formulations change radically (or a new technology emerges), the process of permanently straightening hair inherently poses health considerations. Many stylists now urge clients to consider gentler styling options or limit relaxer use frequency as a precaution.
- Regulatory hopefuls: With laws like California’s banning certain toxins, future relaxers might eliminate the worst offenders (e.g., no phthalates, no formaldehyde releasers). This could make them safer, but whether that eliminates cancer risk is unknown. Hormone disruption is complex, and research is ongoing to identify exactly which components are most culpable.
Ultimately, consumers should assume some level of risk with any chemical relaxer today. That doesn’t mean everyone who straightens their hair will get cancer – far from it. Cancer is multi-factorial, and these studies deal in probabilities. But given the serious nature of uterine, ovarian, and breast cancers, even a doubled risk is a red flag.
No regulator has recalled relaxers from the market as of 2025 and so they remain legal to buy. The onus is on individuals to stay informed. If you choose to use these products, watch for any regulatory updates or brand reformulations. And if you’ve been diagnosed with a related illness, know that you’re not alone and legal help is available.
Your Legal Rights and Next Steps
If you suspect that regular use of hair relaxers contributed to a cancer diagnosis, you may be eligible for compensation through a product liability lawsuit or claims process. Here’s what to consider:
- Document Your Use: Try to recall or document which brands you used and for how long. Receipts, product packages, or even photos can help tie your use to specific companies – which strengthens a legal case.
- Medical Records: Ensure your diagnosis (uterine, ovarian, breast cancer, etc.) is well documented. If your doctor noted an unusual number of fibroids or other hormone-related issues, that might be relevant too.
- Mass Tort vs. Class Action: Most women are joining the mass tort MDL as individual plaintiffs, which preserves your unique claim (different diagnoses, varying damages). There is also a class action seeking economic losses (e.g. refunds, monitoring) but not covering personal injury. A knowledgeable attorney can advise the best route.
- No Upfront Costs: Virtually all law firms in this arena work on contingency, meaning no fee unless you win. Initial consultations are typically free. This lowers the barrier for victims to get legal help.
- Time Limits: Laws called statutes of limitations apply. In many states, you have 2-3 years from diagnosis (or from when you learned of the link) to file a suit. Don’t delay, as waiting too long could bar your claim.
- Potential Outcomes: While no payouts have occurred yet, lawyers are seeking damages for medical bills, lost income, pain and suffering, and punitive damages to punish wrongdoing. If the MDL settles, payouts may be tiered by injury severity (with uterine cancers likely higher than fibroids, for example). Any participation in a settlement is voluntary – you could opt out if unsatisfactory, though pursuing solo trials is challenging.
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Don’t navigate this fight alone. LitigationConnect LLC is here to support you with network of mass tort lawyers who understand the nuances of these cases. We will listen to your story, explain your rights, and pursue every avenue to hold manufacturers responsible for the harm caused.
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